Which foods pair best with tawny port?

We rarely think of tawny port as a flexible pairing for food. We serve it with stilton, obviously and with hard cheeses like cheddar, with nuts and dried fruits and over Christmas with fruit cake and mince pies but that’s usually as far as it goes.

True, its sweetness suggests desserts and cakes rather than savoury dishes but like other strong dessert wines it can do sterling service at the start of a meal, particularly if it’s - as is increasingly fashionable - lightly chilled. And even with sweet things you should ensure - as is the case with other dessert wines - that your dessert is not far sweeter than your port.

On the spot
A Portuguese favourite with tawny port are the rich eggy pastries that you find in the pastelerias (patisseries) and creamy desserts such as crème caramel. Figs and (elvas) plums are also considered good matches. (According to Christian Seely of Quinta do Noval tawny is superb with fig tart) My own star match, improbable as it might sound, is bread pudding, a brilliant combination I came across on a visit to Lisbon a few years ago.

Sheep's cheeses also work well especially what is by common consent one of Portugal’s finest, the rich creamy Queijo Serra - highly prized by cheese connoisseurs

Why not try:
10 year old tawnies with:

• sherry-style with salted roast almonds

• chicken or duck liver parfait or other meaty pâtés and terrines

• presunto (Portuguese air dried ham) or Spanish jamon iberico

• pecan, almond or walnut tart or cakes

• apple, pear or banana tatin

• a compote of dried fruits

• crème brûlée

• cheesecake (without red fruits)

• ginger-flavoured cakes and puddings

See also my post on caramel-flavoured desserts and tawny port

20 year old tawnies with:

• foie gras - a rich, nutty alternative to Sauternes, it will pick up on a sweet accompaniment such as balsamic vinegar or prunes

• roast lobster (according to Calem)

• feathered game such as pheasant and partridge

• hard sheep's milk cheeses such as Ossau Iraty and Manchego, mature Gouda, parmesan

• dark, bitter chocolate and chocolate truffles (Valrhona’s Caraibe and Choua are recommended by the Chocolate Society)

• biscotti

• panforte di Siena

• roasted chestnuts (a great suggestion from Jose Carneiro of Wiese & Krohn)

In the kitchen
Tawny port is a useful ingredient for any cook to have to hand, especially for deglazing pans. It works particularly well with chicken livers, lambs liver and kidneys and will also add richness to slow-braised meat sauces.You can also use it as a base for a sabayon or zabaglione

A version of this article was first published in Decanter magazine

Image ©anna_shepulova at Adobe Stock.

What are the best pairings for Provence rosé?

Provence rosé has a distinct character that sets it apart from other rosés on the market. It’s known for being crisp, dry, and refreshing—qualities that align it more closely with white wines than traditional rosés. This unique profile can be attributed to the region’s winemaking techniques and climate, which yield wines that are both light and structured. Within this style, however, there are variations. On one hand, you have the lighter, easy-drinking wines, known as “vins de soif,” which are perfect for casual sipping. On the other hand, you have more complex and robust rosés, referred to as “vins de gastronomie,” which are designed to pair with a wider variety of foods.

When it comes to food pairings for rosé, Provence rosés truly shine. The versatility of these wines makes them a wonderful match for a wide range of dishes and ingredients. For lighter rosés, think simple, fresh flavors—salads with goat cheese, seafood, or light pasta dishes are ideal companions. The crisper the rosé, the better it pairs with delicate flavors that don’t overpower the palate. For the more structured, gastronomic rosés, heartier food pairings come into play, such as grilled meats, Mediterranean vegetables, or even richer seafood dishes like bouillabaisse. These wines have the complexity and body to stand up to more intense flavors, making them a perfect match for a well-thought-out meal.

Here, listed from A-Z, are some of the top food pairings for rosé wines from the three key Provence appellations: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, and Coteaux Varois-en-Provence. These dishes, while perfectly suited to Provence rosés, also work well with other southern French rosés, as they share similar characteristics. 

The best food pairings for Provence rosé

Anchovies - especially fresh ones and anchoiade (anchovy spread)
Asian-influenced food - a rather vague concept but think in terms of westernised dishes with Asian influences. Authentic Thai food for example is too powerful.
Artichokes - raw, grilled or preserved in olive oil (not boiled)
Asparagus - grilled or with a vinaigrette rather than with butter
Avocado
Aubergines - cooked lightly as a purée (baba ganoush) or grilled rather than as a bake with cooked tomatoes and cheese
Brie - though don’t let it get too runny
‘Cake’ - the French word for a savoury, usually cheese-flavoured loaf served with an aperitif
Carpaccio - beef or salmon
Chicken - cold e.g. as a terrine or in a salad
Courgettes in most forms, especially lightly cooked e.g. courgettes à la grecque
Couscous and bulghur salads - e.g. tabbouleh
Crab - esp the white meat. Think crab salads and crostini
Crudités - raw vegetables such as celery, cucumber and peppers. Take care any accompanying dip isn’t too strong though
Dim sum, steamed rather than fried, especially with seafood
Fennel - especially with fish
Gazpacho
Goats’ cheese, especially younger or herb-coated ones
Herbs - fresh rather than dry, especially basil, mint, rosemary, tarragon and thyme
Lamb - roast or grilled rack of lamb, esp with herbs, served rare
Lebanese (and probably Greek and Turkish) mezze
Moroccan food especially cooked salads, pastries, fish dishes and lighter tagines e.g. chicken and lemon
Olive oil - esp fresh grassy ones
Olives, esp green olives and green tapenade
Parmesan biscuits or tuiles
Pesto - and Pistou (the Provençal equivalent)
Pink peppercorns
Pissaladière - made the traditional way with onions rather than tomatoes
Parma ham - and similar air-dried hams, esp with fruits like peaches and figs
Pasta - with light sauces e.g. with fresh tomato, prawns
Plateau de fruits de mer - raw shellfish platter
Porchetta - roast pork with herbs, served lukewarm or cold
Prawns - as in griddled prawns, prawn cocktail, Chinese-style prawn toasts (It’s the colour thing too)
Provençal-style stuffed vegetables
Radishes
Rabbit - rillettes or paté
Red mullet, grilled
Risotto - light seafood and vegetable versions
Salads - especially Asian style salads, avoiding heavy dressings (so not blue cheese or thousand island, for example)
Salmon - served raw, cold, poached or as a mousse. Also salmon tartare and smoked salmon
Satay - if not too spicy
Seabass - grilled with oil and lemon
Spices - used with a light hand - especially coriander, cumin, saffron and zatar
Sushi
Strawberries - on their own, with a little fromage frais or in a sharp ‘fruit soup’. Not in a tart or with meringues and cream
Tomatoes, especially fresh tomatoes, as in tomato salads, a fresh tomato sauce, Tomato ‘tarte fine’
Tuna - fresh or tinned. Grilled tuna, salade niçoise
Veal - served cold as in vitello tonnato
Vietnamese spring rolls with herbs and mint
Zucchini (see courgettes)

What doesn’t work so well
Cream or butter based sauces (though yoghurt, crème fraiche and fromage frais work well)
Red meat
Game
Ratatouille (although the French would almost certainly disagree, I find it too heavy for this style of rosé)
Hot curries
Strong cheeses, especially blues
‘Winter food’ generally

You might also enjoy reading: the best food pairings for rosé

I travelled to Provence as a guest of the CIVP

Photo by Pixabay

Which wines and beers to pair with asparagus

This month I asked my fellow Tweeters to tackle the subject of wine with asparagus - supposed to be a tricky combination, but as @cuvee_corner put it “Maybe it's just me, but I don't see the difficulty.” (It isn't just you. There are plenty of options!)

Sauvignon and Chardonnay were probably under-represented in the feedback because I asked for less usual pairings but it was fascinating to see which other wines you’d found successful.

If you didn’t take part in the survey on Twitter and have a successful asparagus pairing you’re dying to share email me at fionaATmatchingfoodandwineDOTcom

Asparagus whites
* Simple is best, steamed and served with butter and a glass of Muscadet @emmausglos
* Cellar Springs Western Cape Sauvignon Blanc (Co-op 5) is my favourite with asparagus so far this season @Perrin124
* Always love a good NZ Sauv Blanc, Margaret River Sem/Sauv or Cava with asparagus @wine2010
* a good NZ or Chilean Sauv Blanc @finewinedrew
* I like sauvignon blanc with asparagus, especially if chevre & mint are along for the ride @ericvellend
* White Bordeaux? To go with hollandaise? @benpaustin
* A vinho verde with high proportion of Loureiro, very mineral and refreshing! @CasaLeal
* Posh Aligot like Coche Dury @OstreaEdulis (I would also consider Goisot, Ramonet and Aubert de Villaine for good Aligot added @RobertGiorgione)
* Grilled or oven baked asparagus with Chenin Blanc from South Africa or the Loire @iWineReview
*I like my asparagus with melted butter so prefer Chardonnay to Sauvignon but that's personal preference. Or how about a bit of Chenin Blanc or Menetou Salon? @FallowfieldsUK
* Arneis with asparagus, esp with parmigiano atop (the asparagus, that is) @memmw
* I had a Petite Arvine (Swiss white wine) with a dish of asparagus, turkey, ham, egg and a light creamy sauce with curry powder. Good combination! @Wijnkronieken
* Quinta da Cardo Siria from Beiras in Portugal. Has slight taste of gunpowder! but excellent with asparagus @Portovinowines
* White asparagus with Alsace Pinot Blanc. My favourite combination. Reminds me of home in Holland @pieterrosenthal
* I like to serve a dry muscat/moscato giallo/muskateller e.g Alsace, Alto-Adige, Germany or Austrian @robertgiorgione
* Not-so-common matches (so far as I can make out) would be a dry muscat from Alsace and a straight smillon. I love muscat in all forms and would gamble on that. @howardggoldberg
* Sylvaner's a good match for the basic taste of green asparagus @howardvann
* Austria's Riesling Domaine Gobelsburg 2008 is lovely with British asparagus and hollandaise sauce http://bit.ly/bvCNcs @TheWineSociety
* Viognier perhaps? @bkwineper
* Barrel-vinified Mauzac with green asparagus, wild or cultivated @RivesBlanques
* Asp/feta/mint frittata is good with Rueda Verdejo. Also aspergeade + Rolle blends from Provence (Vermentino in Corsica) @foodwinediarist
* In winter when our asparagus comes from Peru I like to serve them chopped over penne with dried morels in mustard cream & nutmeg. I’d pair that with Weiburgunder from the Sdliche Weinstrae end of the Pfalz, Silvaner from Franken, WB or really opulent GV from Austria said @auslese55, adding “and last night we had Kremstal dry muscat w an asparagus/chevre salad. Neuburger is also quite good w Spargel.”
* @spicespoon and @cheeserus were also Gruner fans “something like Werner Michlits Meinklang which has a classic savoury pea/celery flavour” said @cheeserus
* Asparagus, basil ice cream, and ripe cherry tomatoes with top South African sparkles (Graham Beck Cuvee Clive was one). @HarryReginald

And with red wine . . .
* I recall having an asparagus (and parmigiano) risotto with a delicate sliver of black truffle accompanied by a soft Tempranillo @harshalshah
* Lacrima di Morro d'Alba by Badiali, a red wine from a small DOC in central Italy with asparagus with a creamy but not lemony sauce @slowgrapes
(I’m surprised more reds weren’t suggested. I’ve found that if you grill asparagus and serve it with olive oil or with sauted mushrooms (a good accompaniment for steak) you can happily serve a light red like a Cabernet Franc (FB)

And even dessert wine (though I remain to be convinced ;-)
* Can recommend Sauternes - had a wonderful 1999 Rieussec last Saturday which matched up beautifully! @SauternesSteve (though he revealed it was served as a vegetable with a spicy lamb dish)

Beer ideas
There was almost as much enthusiasm about pairing beer with asparagus as wine. I’ve always tended to go for witbier but several of you suggested a richer, sweeter style which I'm going to have to try.

* Saison Dupont is a fantastic asparagus match @thornbridgekel (@BrisBeerFactory agreed, “especially with hollandaise”.)
* @thornbridgekel also remembered “a lovely, slightly tart Berlin-Style Wheat Ale by The Bruery in US called Hottenroth”
* Griddled asparagus with Westmalle Triple "totally delicious!" @ZakAvery (you can see Zak’s fascinating video on pairing wine with asparagus on YouTube here)
* Try a dressing of raspberry or cherry beer with fresh tarragon or tarragon mustard for a little kick! @BertinetKitchen
* I had a simple dish of asparagus with lemon butter and black pepper with Paulaner Wheat Beer last night. It shared the same green citrus and aromatic notes @DomLane

My own favourite new asparagus pairing btw is Deutz Champagne with asparagus served with soft boiled eggs, shelled and rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried as served at Racine in Knightsbridge which made me think that bubbles might be a way to go with asparagus and hollandaise too.

Thank you all for your great suggestions. Next month I’ll be looking for the best drink for a barbecue!